2015 Carry-On 3.5X5LSHS Trailer

trailer_35x5lshs-cropped

The trailer before modification…

I like small trailers and opted for Carry-On Trailer’s 3.5x5LSHS, a 3.5×5-foot trailer with 16-inch tall mesh sides. My wife quickly labeled it the “baby trailer.” The 3.5x5LSHS is usually available at Lowe’s Home Improvement. It’s great for taking stuff to the dump or transporting dirty items that I don’t want inside my car. The 3.5x5LSHS also very popular among Jeep owners who are looking for a trailer to convert for off-road use. It’s a good trailer right off the lot, but I made changes to make it even better. First mods included Yakima TopLoaders so I could mount my Yakima 1A Raingutter rack, a set of lighted guide posts to help when backing, and a ½” wooden floor since I knew the steel mesh floor would warp under load without support.

I had been nervous about carrying my bicycles because the trailer would bounce violently over small bumps. The factory 1000-lb leaf springs and skinny 90-psi tires give very little road compliance for a trailer that weighs less than 500 lbs most of the time. I replaced the leaf springs with 500-lb replacements. They worked well when my loads were light. However, I eventually had to remove them after one slipped out of its retainer due to a combination of overloading and my oversized wheels/tires, shown below. I switched back to 1000-lb springs since I still need to carry heavier loads on occasion. I chose a set with four leafs that rides smoother with light loads and still supports heavy loads. This photo shows the difference between a 500-lb spring, the factory 1000-lb 2-leaf spring, and my new 4-leaf spring.

Next, I replaced the factory steel fenders with large plastic fenders to make room for larger wheels and tires. I upgraded the factory 12-inch wheels/tires to 13-inch trailer wheels with ST175/80D13 load range B tires. The speed rated M tires operate at 35 psi (instead of 90 psi) and are 17% larger than stock, which gives me slower hub speeds and should also reduce wear to the wheel bearings. Speaking of wheel bearings, I upgraded to a galvanized Dexter axle with galvanized hubs in 2019. Annual hub maintenance should be a breeze!

In my opinion, a trailer on the road with malfunctioning lights depicts owner as either lazy or inept. I don’t want to be “that guy.” I like my trailer lighting bright and functioning perfectly. Knowing that the factory lighting is cheap and subject to failure from vibration, I quickly upgraded to submersible LED lighting. Also, the stock plastic license plate bracket held the license plate low enough to take a beating, especially if I backed up to a curb. My state allows motorcycle plates on trailers, so I inverted a metal bracket and provided the plate with its own LED lighting.  My last addition was a pair of steel protective housings, just in case I misjudge when backing. I think the package looks sharp!  🙂

I’ve always wanted weatherproof cargo hauling without committing to a large cargo trailer. Adding ¾” plywood sides and a lid accomplished several things: 1) weather-proofing for the cargo (“rain-proof,” but not watertight); 2) durable protection for the mesh siding; 3) mounting options for more tie down rings; and 4) more stability since the plywood adds about 200 lbs to the ride. With nearly every part of the trailer being heavier, there’s less vibration or rattling; plus, the suspension is pre-loaded for a better empty ride. Two coats of Herculiner bed liner appear to be quite durable, even with rocks and shovels abusing it.

The only possible negative I can think of about my trailer is its tendency to rust. Many Carry-On trailers have rust on them before they even leave the store. Nearly any steel trailer at this price will see rust in its future. The paint on the front of the trailer and fenders is especially prone to chipping/rusting due to debris being kicked up by the tow vehicle. To combat rust, I started by choosing the specimen with the least amount of visible rust. I immediately spot-sprayed with a rust-converting spray paint and then a topcoat of gloss black enamel. The plastic replacement fenders eliminate a usual home for rust, too. Routine spray paint touch-ups are cheap insurance against rust. Additionally, the super-thick Herculiner finish withstands plenty of abuse and appears to have reduced my need for regular repainting.

There came a point when I needed to load a heavy roller tool cabinet. Sure a couple of strong people could probably get it up the ramps and into the trailer. But I’d rather load/unload such an expensive and heavy item in a slow, controlled manner. Adding a Dutton-Lainson 2000-lb hand winch with 20-ft nylon strap did the trick. I use a cordless drill to make quicker work of loading/unloading. Just when it seemed the winch would be an infrequent need, I discovered that it’s actually quite useful for strapping large items to the trailer. It’s been great to have it, even on my tiny trailer.

My most versatile upgrade has been the addition of Yakima’s Outdoorsman 300 rack and a medium OffGrid cargo basket with 18-inch extension. The new platform is a game-changer during my support of large bicycling events. The two ice chests that usually ride inside the car were able to ride on the OffGrid, instead. I was glad to have space in the car for other things. I don’t place more than 150 lbs on the OffGrid. The basket is more for bulky items than heavy. The OffGrid also has crossbars that are compatible with bicycle mounts. Click here to read more about my “water trolley.”

You may have noticed a variety of spare tire configurations, especially in the photo album below. I like the trailer to be light and easy to maneuver when empty. The tongue was too heavy for my liking any time the spare tire was mounted forward of the axle. Sure, I could still move the trailer easily enough. But I wanted the tongue to be even lighter when the trailer is empty. On top of that, I felt the spare was intrusive on such a small trailer, especially since I’ve had just one flat tire in over 20 years of towing. As a result, I decided to mount the tire in what is easily the least-convenient place to access in the event of a flat: Under the trailer. Clearance is tight, especially for a full-sized spare. So, I did a crazy thing by mounting a 4.80-12. It’s just small enough to fit between the frame crossmembers and gives almost two inches of additional clearance over the ground. It’s just a “limp-home” spare tire. That’s okay since I’d replace both tires immediately.

That’s it, the details of my “baby trailer.” I’ve upgraded most of the functional items to suit my wants. I can carry bikes and cargo without the wind noise, mounting hassles, overhead lifting, head knocking, or marred paint of a roof rack while providing much of the versatility and positives of owning a compact crew-cab pickup truck. It’s perfect for vacations, dump runs, or as a mini-workhorse (a pony? 00-winky) for a stubborn guy who won’t buy a pickup truck.  00-biggrin See more photos below. Oh, it’s also versatile in parking situations, especially with my practice of “stunt parking.” See this entry for more details about my trailer-witchcraft.  😉

Ironically, I added a cargo trailer to my garage in 2018. I prefer to use the baby trailer for filthy or wet loads… it’s also more aerodynamic than a cargo trailer. But the cargo trailer is great for moving items that I need to keep dry. See a list of specifications below the photo album. Also, here is a handy guide on how to properly load or balance your trailer.

Who Needs a Truck?

Scott

Here are the specs, mostly so I don’t have to dig so much to find them again. Since this trailer has undergone changes, I’ve listed my upgrades in bold with the factory specs lined-out in parentheses:

  • Empty Weight: 500 lbs, including the lid (250 lbs)
  • Payload Capacity: 1,500 lbs (1,750 lbs)
  • Overall Length: 94″
  • Overall Width: 60″ (56″)
  • Deck Length: 59″ without Rear Gate (60″)
  • Deck Width: 40.5″ (42″)
  • 2″ x 3″ Straight Tube Tongue
  • 1.5″ x 1.5″ Angle Main Frame
  • 2″ x 2″ x 1/8″ Angle Top Rail
  • 1-7/8″ Straight Coupler with Safety Chains
  • 4-Leaf Springs (2-Leaf Springs)
  • 13″ Galvanized Wheels with 175/80D13 Tires (12″ Wheels with 4.80×12 Tires)
  • 31″ Black Plastic Fenders (24″ Jeep Style Fenders)
  • 2,200-lb  Galvanized Dexter Axle (2000-lb Axle)
  • Swivel-Up Tongue Jack
  • 1-7/8″ Ball Coupler
  • LED Taillights with Steel Protective Housings (Incandescent Taillights)
  • 1/2″ Wood Floor (Mesh Floor)
  • 16″ Mesh High Sides with 18″ High 3/4″ Plywood Inserts
  • 16″ Removable Rear Gate with 3/4″ Plywood Insert
  • 3/4″ Exterior Grade Plywood Lid
  • Herculiner Finish
  • Dutton-Lainson 2000-lb hand winch with 20-ft nylon strap
  • Under-Frame Spare Tire and Mount
  • Yakima Outdoorsman 300 Rack with OffGrid Basket

44 Responses to 2015 Carry-On 3.5X5LSHS Trailer

  1. Alex says:

    For the custom wheel adapters what options did you choose? Thickness? Did you go with the standard 12×1.50 studs?

    Like

    • Scott says:

      Alex – Because my VW wheels have a 49mm offset and trailer wheels are zero, I chose an adapter thickness of two inches. I also chose 14×1.50 studs since they are closer to the proper size for VW wheels. Thanks for visiting. -Scott

      Like

    • Scott says:

      Alex – If you’re still monitoring, I wanted to let you know that I’ve switched back to standard trailer wheels, albeit larger than stock. I found excessive wear on the inner wheel bearings and axle spindles. I believe the large offset of the spacers caused this despite still having the tire centered along the bearings. I shared photos of the updates in the main article above. Just wanted to share a heads-up. Take care! -Scott

      Like

      • Alex says:

        Thanks for the info!

        Like

      • Brad says:

        How long did you run the larger wheels before you noticed excessive wear? I ask because I’m about $600 deep in “improvements” and dont really want to spend more on new wheels and tires AGAIN 😅

        Like

      • Scott says:

        HAHA! Yeah, I hear you, Brad! I think the adapters were on the trailer for about 2.5 years and through LOTS of towing. I’ve towed some fairly heavy loads, some as high as 1500 lbs GVW. I don’t recommend that if you’ve “downgraded” your springs. See the main article for updates driven by a spring issue. I decided I wanted towing capacity over the lighter springs. Back to the bearings, you’ll probably be fine if your loads are light. Just grab the top of the wheel and tug it left/right (perpendicular to the hub face) from time to time to check for bearing slop. Realistically, I probably could have repacked and continued to run the adapters for years longer with the understanding that I might go through bearings more often (replace every year instead of just repacking). Bearings are cheap. Still, I decided to play it safe since I use the trailer so much. I’ll be taking new photos of the trailer in the coming months to reflect my changes, especially when I install my new EZ-Lube axle. Take Care! -Scott

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  2. Matt Heller says:

    Hi Scott- May I ask why you swapped your 16″ Mambo wheels with 205/55/16 tires on your trailer for the black steelies/smaller tires? Fitment issue?

    Thanks.

    Like

    • Scott says:

      Matt – There was no fitment problem with the Mambos. I originally mounted the Mambos as a match to the ones on my Mk6 Jetta. Once I turned in the Mk6 for the GTI, I decided to go with the black steelies as a wheel that would “match” well enough with any other VW I might subsequently own. Later, I bought another Mk6 for my daughter and decided to put the spare Mambos on her car. I then took her steelies and saved them for use on my other trailer. Thanks for visiting! -Scott

      Like

  3. Matt says:

    Thanks for the reply. I’m planning to do the same trailer also with the 16″ wheel, 205/55 tires- except for a Subaru.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Scott says:

      Matt – If you’re still monitoring, I wanted to let you know that I’ve switched back to standard trailer wheels, albeit larger than stock. I found excessive wear on the inner wheel bearings and axle spindles. I believe the large offset of the spacers caused this despite still having the tire centered along the bearings. I shared photos of the updates in the main article above. Just wanted to share a heads-up. Take care! -Scott

      Like

  4. Christopher says:

    Hello Scott, I too make my car “work” first my 1996 Golf and its replacement a 2017 GTI. But I worry that my nice sports car is being beaten up. Love the ideas you’ve put forward! Can you describe what looks like a lid or top on your trailer? Is it lockable? Would you be willing to provide a cost breakout for the trailer and upgrades? Thanks so much for sharing!

    Like

    • Scott says:

      Christopher – I don’t recall a total cost breakdown. The trailer itself is the most expensive part. It currently retails for $400. I got mine on sale for $300. The leaf springs were ~$20, the wheel adapters were ~$160, the fenders were ~$80, the LED lighting was ~$50, and the wheels/tires were take-offs from various VW’s that I’ve owned (I’m a bit of a “wheel whore”). The wooden sides and lid were ~$60. The trick with the wood is that the trailer is not square. So I had to cut the wood to un-square dimensions to get everything to align. The lid does not lock. Most of the time, I just use ratcheting straps to hold it in place. But I can use wood screws to screw it shut for additional security (only a deterrent, really). I’d like to re-do the floor and sides in metal, but that’s more expensive and heavier, plus rust control and paint. Worst case is I may need to replace the wood from time to time as the wood rots. Wood is cheap, so it’s not a big deal. I think that covers everything. Let me know if you have more questions. Thanks for visiting! -Scott

      Like

  5. Joseph says:

    Scott I’m struggling to find the right leaf springs. Do you remember the dimensions and brand for the 500 lbs leaf springs you purchased? Unfortunately the link in the article is out of date.
    Thank you! -Joseph

    Like

    • Scott says:

      Joseph – Thanks for pointing out the outdated link on my page. I’ve seen the suppliers for these springs change a few times over the years. I’ve updated the article with this spring, https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Suspension/Universal-Group/SP-177275.html, which is essentially the same part. Keep in mind that your capacity will cut in half. I’ve considered moving up to a 750-lb spring, also available at etrailer, just so I can carry up to 1500 lbs. But I’m still good. BTW, the 500-lb springs are flat when the trailer has about 1000 lbs of cargo, for a total weight of 1300 lbs. My trailer’s fenders rub if I load more than that. Just a point of reference. 🙂 Thanks for visiting! -Scott

      Like

      • Joseph says:

        You’re a life saver!
        I’m building a motorcycle trailer so it has to remain pretty light, I was having the worst time finding the right replacement leaf.
        Your posts are an inspiration, keep up the great work!

        Liked by 1 person

      • Scott says:

        Glad to help. Thanks for the kind feedback! -Scott

        Like

      • Willie says:

        Scott, I’m thinking of purchasing the same trailer for my Can Am Spyder. Let me know or send pictures of your up grades. Thanks

        Like

      • Scott says:

        Willie – I’m not sure I understand the nature of your question. This webpage has photos of nearly every upgrade I’ve done to the trailer. Have a look at the photo album below the article. With that said, I believe this trailer is far too small for your Spyder. Thanks for writing. -Scott

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  6. Johan Gamblepudding..... says:

    Thanks for your previous reply regarding the wheel size and fender clearance. I’m also going to look into the wheel adapters to get the offset and to be able to use 16 inch tires which match the tow vehicle.

    Now, please talk about the numerous tie downs that you have on the trailer. I am building something similar and would like to add many of these too. However, everything I’ve seen has been too big or over engineered ie machine hooks. Where did you find them? Thanks

    Like

    • Scott says:

      Johan – The anchors I used were by Keeper, model #5652. They appear to be unavailable. Keeper has a chrome version that can probably be painted black. My black ones have been repainted over the years. See the item at https://amzn.to/2RhnlwS. I do not use the supplied anchor or the 3/8″ bolt. Instead, I removed the bolt and replaced it with a 1/2″ long replacement hex bolt. I use a small stack of washers to take up the slack. Good Luck! -Scott

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    • Scott says:

      Johan – If you’re still monitoring, I wanted to let you know that I’ve switched back to standard trailer wheels, albeit larger than stock. I found excessive wear on the inner wheel bearings and axle spindles. I believe the large offset of the spacers caused this despite still having the tire centered along the bearings. I shared photos of the updates in the main article above. Just wanted to share a heads-up. Take care! -Scott

      Like

  7. Tom Budai says:

    On the Road trailers in Warren, Maine will custom make a 4 x 6 utility trailer with a wood floor and wood sides and larger tires and it tilts for loading or dumping. $1400 This company makes all the trailers for the lobster men (for hauling traps between their homes and their boats) in mid coast Maine so you know they are done right. I’ve been using mine for three years now hauling personal items back and forth between Maine and New Jersey – no problems. It works great doing all those other jobs around the house (moving leaves, trash, etc.).

    Like

    • Scott says:

      Tom – Thanks for your note! My first trailer was a 4×8 dumper. I used it for nearly 20 years. The dumping capability was good, but also annoying in a way. With the axle centered along the trailer, I had to focus on loading further forward to manage the tongue weight. Otherwise, it would rattle a bit as the trailer rocked fore/aft during transit. I’m not sure if I explained that well enough. Anyway, I noticed something about most of my loads. See this photo: https://stealthgti.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/oldtrailer.jpg. The thing these loads all have in common is I very seldom used the last two feet of the trailer. So I decided to buy one that simply didn’t have that last foot. HAHA! It’s been working great! Thanks for visiting! -Scott

      Like

  8. Brad says:

    Any tips on how to get the fenders off?

    Like

    • Scott says:

      Brad – The factory fenders are welded on. I took my trailer to a shop, had them cut off the fenders, and then grind the mounting points smooth. I primed and painted the areas when I got home. I suspect any shop that does welding also has a cutting torch/grinder and should be able to do it for you. Thanks for writing and good luck! -Scott

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  9. Outback says:

    Thanks for the detailed build write-up. I found this page while searching for small multipurpose trailer options. I was looking for something that I could use to haul yard debris, bikes, kayaks and other general items. I picked up the trailer for $330 during the Christmas holiday sale ($495 after tax, title and registration) and invested another $300 in the 1A towers, risers, brackets and big stack kayak racks (I already had some crossbars and bike racks). With the trailer and the existing rooftop cross bars I can now haul seven kayaks and probably just as many bikes with cargo space for paddles, PFD, coolers, etc. Perfect!

    I’ll soon work on adding a wood deck and maybe sidewalls. I think I’ll keep the springs and axle stock but will look into larger/wider tires to help it survive the winter potholes and track better thorough the ruts and grooves that have developed on the local highways.

    Like

    • Scott says:

      Nicely done! I’m sure that trailer will serve you well for a long time. If you find it bouncing too much, just toss a box with 200-lbs of bricks in the huge area beneath the kayaks. I guess 200 lbs of ice and drinks might be more practical! 😉 A little weight goes a long way to stabilizing the trailer. The wood you plan to install will help, too. Thanks for visiting! -Scott

      Like

  10. Matthew Carper says:

    So I am looking at this exact trailer for an overland tent mount build. Will probably do the axle / leaf flip to get better geound clearance. I was looking at larger wheels and tires. Can I go 205 without needing spacers? Seems like that will be much wider than stock tire. TIY and thanks for the post. It has been very helpful!

    Like

    • Scott says:

      Matthew – I think they’ll rub. In fact, I’m really sure they’ll rub if you don’t at least flip the leaf spring bolt so that the nut is inboard. Clearance will still be really tight after flipping that bolt. That was the case with my 195’s, anyway. Are you planning to mount wheels that’ll match your tow vehicle? If you’ll need lug pattern adapters, you could always space them with the adapters. First, you might want to try test fitting a trailer wheel with 205s. It’s not hard to borrow one from Walmart, even if you have to resort to buying it and then returning it. HAHA! That way, you’ll see how a 205 fits with a zero offset wheel. From there, it’ll be easier to figure out how thick to build your adapters. You’ll want to do your axle flip first, though. I’m certain the fenders won’t clear 205s unless you flip first. Good Luck! -Scott

      Like

      • Matthew Carper says:

        Thanks Scott,

        After measuring ground clearance with stock tires. Also after reading about your bearing issues using a spacer, I may just upgrade to them to the 175/80 13 like you mention above. It looks like those will add a couple of inches, clear the included steel fenders, and allow me to focus on the tent mount portion of the mod. Thank you for the fast response, and great article.

        Like

      • Scott says:

        What is your tow vehicle?

        Like

  11. Matthew Carper says:

    It is a 1989 Suzuki Sidekick. Great for offroad but very little power. Trying to keep the load as light as possible.

    Like

    • Scott says:

      Light is good, that’s for sure! I envy the Jeep and Toyota folks who can do the wheel swap with their trailers without resorting to adapters. My bolt pattern converts to 5×4.4, which is not an available trailer hub size. But you may be in luck! The 5×139.7mm bolt spacing on your Suzuki equates to a 5×5.5″ trailer hub. Instead of adapters, you could replace the trailer hubs with 5×5.5″ units. BUT, that would require upgrading to a 3500-lb axle swap since this bolt pattern does not appear to be available for the 2000-lb axle. *I’D* do it if I was going for the long-haul. But I”m a nerd that way. 😉 Champion Trailers can supply an axle that’s custom length for you. Check them out at https://www.championtrailers.com/axles-galvanized-3500-lb/. From there, find a 5×5.5″ hub and you’ll have a match.Your Suzuki wheels will offset by 25mm, but that’s nothing compared to the 52mm spacers I had to use. Good Luck! -Scott

      Like

      • Matthew Carper says:

        Yes my ultimate goal is to get it where one spare takes care of all. I do have two more questions for you.

        Do you know if the 13″ wheel / tire combo you linked will fit the the factory steel fenders? I made that assumption and measuring seems to make me think it will fit.

        Have you ever tried the timbren axle-free trailer suspensions before? Jist curious for future upgrades.

        Thanks again for all the help

        Like

      • Scott says:

        Matt – I don’t think it’ll fit. But I have to admit that I didn’t try before going straight to a 25″ tall VW wheel/tire. Even if the 13″ wheel/tire fits, I’m confident that it would rub once the trailer is loaded and the springs compress. Look at these two photos, one with the stock 12-inch wheel with an overall diameter of 21 inches, the other with my VW wheel with a 25-inch diameter. This isn’t an apples to apples comparison because the second photo is with the trailer loaded with 1000 lbs of gravel. However, it’s worth noting that the plastic fender in the second photo is mounted ~3″ higher than stock. Compare the locations of the fender tops. I’ll share a third photo that I forgot I have. The third photo is with the 13-inch wheel, which is 24 inches in diameter. Imagine the fender three inches lower. That is why I don’t think the 13’s will fit without a fender swap or an axle flip. Here are the photos:

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      • Scott says:

        As for the Tmbren axle-free suspensions, I looked at this for a bit, but decided against them due to cost and a requirement for me to remove my box to install them. My box is screwed onto the trailer in pieces and sealed; so, removing it is more of an ordeal than I want. HAHA!

        Like

  12. Christopher Ryan Kratzer says:

    I’m working on a similar trailer build, I’d love to know where you got your “Undersized Load” sign.

    Like

  13. Matthew Carper says:

    Hey Scott, did you just mount the new fenders by bolting the plastic hub right to the frame, or did you use an L bracket to allow use of the top step? I see where you had to notch the plastic to fit over the angle iron so I plan on doing the same thing. Would be nice to see how you mounted the fenders vs me reinventing the wheel (literally)

    Like

    • Scott says:

      Matthew – I had not previously shared photos of how I mounted my fenders. So, you’ve asked a good question. My fenders sit too high to bolt directly to the frame. Instead, I used a set of electric fan straps to hold the fenders in place. Here’s a photo of them in my application: https://stealthgti.files.wordpress.com/2019/03/baby-fender-01.jpg

      Yes, I cut the excess after taking this photo. HAHA! They basically sandwich the plastic fender to the mesh sides with the flat ends of the straps acting as clamps. You can find a set at https://amzn.to/2OhgHFM. Obviously, these are not structurally sound, but they fulfilled a legal requirement to have fenders. Later, when I was installing my wooden box, I replaced the straps with wood screws. They’re much stronger, perhaps even strong enough to support some weight. I probably have six screws on each fender and use fender washers to spread the pressure a bit. But I still avoid sitting on my fenders. I hope this helps. Take Care! -Scott

      Like

  14. Trevor says:

    Scott, this looks great. I have the same trailer that I am planning on using for transporting my kayaks which are longer than average. I have already replaced the tongue with a steel tube from On the Road Trailer that Tom mentioned above to account for the kayak lengths. My question for you is about the box. I don’t see how the sides are attached to either the trailer or the floor. It also looks like the front panel isn’t attached.
    I guess I am wondering how you added the sides around the wiring tubes.

    Thanks for this great write up.

    Like

    • Scott says:

      Trevor – Thanks for your comments. I’ve added photos to the bottom of the album which detail the shape of the sides as well as how I attached them. I had neglected to add them earlier because they had my old finish on them. But check them out. You’ll see how I cut long notches for the wiring tubes. I left room for the wires to enter/exit. I attached the walls to the front and sides in a rather crude fashion by using 3/4″ screws and fender washers to clamp the walls to the mesh sides. They’re painted black to conceal them. I then ran RTV along the bottom to fill in any imperfections and I used A LOT to fill in the large notches for the wiring tubes. Look closely and you may be able to spot it. The Herculiner hides my RTV a bit. All of this effort did not make the trailer waterproof. Instead, I refer to it as “rain-proof.” Rain water can still get in through the tailgate when the trailer is sitting still. The floor MAY get wet (usually doesn’t), but water runs out the back instead of accumulating. I hope this makes sense. Let me know if you have more questions. -Scott

      Like

    • Scott says:

      I should also point out that the trailer box is not square. It’s most noticeable on the front wall and tailgate. Be prepared to make some uneven cuts on the sides to make the edges align.

      Like

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