I was torn between buying an enclosed cargo trailer vice an open utility trailer when I was first shopping 20 years ago. Since then, I’ve gotten a lot of use out of my baby trailer and its predecessor, carrying both liquid and dry loads. Enclosed trailers are both heavier and more expensive, so buying a utility trailer was an easy decision. However, I found myself to be slightly limited in what I could haul, especially in foul weather. I’ve added a lid to my utility trailer; it limits the height of my load to 18 inches, plus any weather-proof items I don’t mind carrying on top of the lid. The box is not watertight, so carrying wet items or leaky water coolers is okay since water can quickly drain or evaporate. I wouldn’t carry wet loads in an enclosed trailer since they tend to be sealed better.
When considering a cargo trailer, I had often been on the fence when choosing between a 4×6 and a 5×8. A 5×8 is obviously heavier, usually 900-1100 lbs, but also taller and more of an aero-killing wall behind the car. A 4×6 lacks the floor space I might eventually want for a camping trip, but it’s lighter and slightly more aerodynamic. Both are about 3-4 times the price of a utility trailer. But my decision became easier when I saw this silver 4×6 with a “For Sale” sign during a leisurely Saturday morning highway drive. The trailer was only a year old, very lightly used, and even had a layer of carpet on the floor. It was substantially less expensive than buying new (which usually requires a special order in this size), so I bought it and towed it home after finding a 2-inch ball.
I haven’t decided whether I will soften the ride like I had on the baby trailer. It weighs 600 lbs empty, so the double-eye leaf springs are already preloaded more than the baby’s slippers were. I plan to test fit one of my VW wheels to see if I can mount a pair. Seeing how they clear the fenders will determine whether a fender update is needed. The VW wheels will either fit or they won’t. We’ll see. I have ideas running through my head and will find a way to make it happen. 😉 The trailer already has LED tail lights, so that’s an expense I don’t need to pursue. It also has rear side marker lights that are at driver’s eye level, so backing at night shouldn’t be too bad. I may add a travel trailer door latch and ventilation if I decide to camp. I’ve had my eyes on a destination for nighttime photography, but don’t want to tent camp. This trailer may help resolve that challenge.
That’s about all I can think of for now. So far it’s just a regular trailer that looks factory, perhaps “too factory.” My first order of business was to remove the stickers from the door. I’ve shared some photos and specs below.
Keeping Things Dry,
Here’s a small photo album…
Here are the specs, mostly so I don’t have to dig so much to find them again…
- Interior Height – 46″ (to the frame)
- Interior Width – 44″
- Interior Length – 75″
- Overall Height – 68″
- Overall Width – 64″
- Overall Length – 108″
- Door Opening Height – 45″
- Door Opening Width – 38″
- 2,000-lb Axle with EZ Lube Hubs
- Modular-Styled Wheels with E-Coat Prime & Powder Finish
- Under Coated Frame
- Heavy Duty Steel Structure
- Frame Structure 24″ O.C.
- Aluminum Fenders
- Tongue Jack
- 2″ Ball Coupler
- LED Taillights
- Double Bulb Sealed Marker Lights
- Aluminum Exterior With Baked Enamel Finish
- Acrylic Enamel Paint
- Seamless Galvalume Roof System
- 3/4″ Exterior Grade Plywood Floor
- 3/8″ Plywood Wall Liner
- 13″ Trailer Rated wheels, with 175/80D13 Tires
- Interior Light