Electronics Suite

I’ve never been one who’s able to leave “good enough” alone, especially when it comes to electronics. I like deep bass in my music. I outgrew my desire for twin 12-inch subwoofers decades ago, but I still like a deeper sound than what most factory stereo upgrades can give. I’ve been satisfied by various single 10-inch subwoofer systems for over 20 years. So it was a natural pursuit when I decided I wanted to upgrade my GTI. Of course, I “had” to add a ham radio and make the entire installation more complicated than necessary. biggrin  

I had been mostly pleased with Volkswagen’s MIB II base stereo. It’s no powerhouse, but it’s more than adequate. I had originally planned to simply tap into the rear speaker wires to feed a signal converter, an amplifier, and then a subwoofer. I think I would have been satisfied with that such a simple setup. Then VW decided to discontinue its Helix subwoofer accessory, meaning they slashed the pricing by more than 50% to quietly clear their inventory. I had already purchased supplies for adding a subwoofer, so I already knew I wasn’t going to keep the Helix box after the initial installation and test. But the super-clean wiring harness and 5-channel amp with DSP were too good to pass up.

After installing the Helix system, I routed two pairs of the Helix amp’s subwoofer output into an Audio Control EQL graphic equalizer with subsonic filter. The EQL accepts the speaker-level input, shapes the signal according to my settings, and then outputs line-level signals for my Rockford Fosgate T500X1BR Power 500-watt monoblock amplifier. I’m using a Rockford Fosgate Punch P3SD4-10 10-inch shallow-mount subwoofer since one of my goals is to keep my spare tire and still have room for my other electronics. This subwoofer limits the amp to 330W RMS and works in an enclosure as small as 0.4 cubic feet. I may eventually upgrade to a T1S1-10, but so far I’m completely satisfied with the P3SD4-10. I use a PLC2 Remote Punch Level Control to fine-tune the subwoofer levels from the driver’s seat. It’s mounted  just inches from the parking brake handle and is usually set to just 35%, leaving plenty of room to provide much more bass, if desired. I’ve shared a photo at the bottom of this page.

The box itself is unique, mostly because it’s more than just a box. I wanted everything to be concealed beneath the removable floor in the trunk. “Everything” includes the subwoofer, power distribution and regulation, amplifiers, ham radio, and a pure sine-wave voltage inverter. On top of that, I wanted it to be easily removable in case I ever decide to autocross or track the car. So I made a full panel with integrated sub box and quick-connections for the electrical parts. The 3.75″ tall box has ~0.52 cubic feet remaining with the subwoofer mounted. I used Acousta-Stuf polyfill to fake more volume. The 68-lb panel can be lifted to reach the spare tire and whatever is left of the storage area; or it can be removed altogether. Getting the carpet applied evenly was my greatest challenge. It’s not perfect, but I think it turned out well.  NOTE: the “dimple” in the subwoofer is by design and NOT a result of contact with the spare tire mounting hardware.

Clockwise from bottom: VHF/UHF digital transceiver, “Super Booster,” low current fuse box, APO3 (x2), 120A relay, fuse block, ground block.

I ran 12V directly from the battery via 4-gauge wire to a 120-amp relay on the driver’s side of the panel. The relay is triggered by a voltage controlled switch, the APO3. This device allows battery power to feed the rest of the panel so long as its voltage is above 13V, basically any time the car is running or for about 30 minutes after shutdown. Once the battery voltage falls below a preset threshold (I can set it for 13.05, 12.7, 12.1, or 11.8 volts) for a preset time (0, 5, 10, or 20 minutes), the 120A relay loses its trigger until the car is restarted and has run for a few seconds. The APO3 assures good battery health and no surprises as a result of a dead battery (been there, done that). From the relay, 12V travels to a fuse block with circuits for the amplifier, a “Super Booster,” an Icom ID-5100D VHF/UHF digital amateur radio transceiver, a Raspberry Pi3 w/DV-Mega (not pictured), a 400W pure sine wave voltage inverter, and a second APO3 (which is set to power the EQL and switch the amp only when the car is running). It’s overkill for my application, but it should never act as a weak link in the system.

In short, I replaced the Helix subwoofer with a system that features a driver with three times more surface area, greater power handling, deeper bass response, and retention of the spare tire. Bonus: a 10-inch subwoofer in a hatchback provides even better bass than what I had previously enjoyed in sedans since there’s no “trunk” acting as a sound barrier. I have shared more photos of my project below and I have addressed the amateur radio installation on a separate page. Feel free to ask any questions about my rather unusual setup.

Thumpin’ Away,



2 Responses to Electronics Suite

  1. George says:

    Hi, love your build! you inspired me to do something similar with my GTI. I just finished building my sub box and I’m starting to install everything, but I wanted to make sure that I had the polarity of the Helix subwoofer out-did you wire it with the yellow wires on that ATX connector being + and the black being-?



    • Scott says:

      George – Thanks for visiting! Yes, as luck would have it, the yellow turns out to be the “+” lead while black is “-“. Even if you got them backwards, many amps allow you to reverse the phase that’s output to the speaker. Just be consistent and everything should work well. Good Luck! -Scott


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